Quality? Beat this...

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My glue gun started making funny noises yesterday, so I decided to take a peek inside the bugger. Guess what I found! A new low in quality. (see picture).

The label on the device says: 110V-240V 60W. Now that itself is a bit strange, as all of the electronics inside are just a heating element. Nothing else. The heater is connected directly to the mains.
Now here's the real thing: The mains connection is represented here by a thin cable that I wouldn't use even for audiosignals. It's got far less than a mm2 in size, it's thin, easily breakable. And what's best: The isolation of the heater-mains connection inside the device is made of two pieces of monstrosly oversized cloth band, that could fall off and leave the stuff ready for a connection. I mean, isn't there some kind of minimum quality for a product to be released?

Also, the big metal part (the heated part) wasn't grounded.

I quickly thrown away the old cable, replaced with one worthy of 60W and with a bit of luck the house wont burn down.

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There are pointy haired bald people.
Time flies when you have a bad prescaler selected.

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If the product have the CE mark, then you can claim they don't pass the electrical safety regulation. If not...

Guillem.

Guillem.
"Common sense is the least common of the senses" Anonymous.

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Ummmmm,

Now I don't feel well after seeing the picture.

Ken

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I purchased a glue gun for about US$20 a few weeks back for while I'm in the states. Spending so much (my gun in Japan is a tiny cheap thing that I got for 300Yen, less than $3) I figured I'd get a good quality gun. What came was a gun from a Chinese company called "Golden" that became obscenely hot very quickly, which I thought was nice since I could glue/insulate what I needed to and be done with it in less time. But after a mere 3 uses the gun stopped ejecting glue. I stuck a toothpick inside as it was cooling down to see if there was perhaps some sort of obstruction. What came out was very dark yellow-brown burned glue. The last time I'd used the gun I'd used it for maybe a half an hour (not on an electronics project) and I guess that was enough to do it in. Opening up the device I found an image somewhat similar to that above. In my case, two thin wires, one black insulated, one totally bare copper wire, no regulation whatsoever.

I also got a spool of solder from this "Golden" company in the same order, and it refuses to melt unless I have my iron turned up so high I have to worry about damaging components. I guess thermodynamics works differently in China, or Golden corporation is located at the molten core of the earth or in a volcano or something.

So, everybody: crack open your glue guns to see if you need to re-engineer them before they kill you or someone you love.

EDIT: Just remembered this thread and checked my gun here in Japan. It was exactly 300Y and was produced here in Japan by a company called KIYOWA, sold by a company called Daizou Sanngyou. Also, this gun heats up faster, doesn't get hotter than it should, and is noticeably more comfortable to use than the piece of junk I talked about above. Very nice.

Last Edited: Sat. Aug 18, 2007 - 10:31 AM
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Very scary

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Hi

daqq, can you supply the actual detail of the glue gun?
Or anyone else who have the same problem.

Manufacture :
Model :
Description :
Serial Number :
Date :
"C" Tick : Yes or No
URL :
Any other infos :

Cheers

Ken

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huh. at least my blue glue gun is so well insulated, that I cant even get in it... and as it does seem to have all the markings on it and is bought from Velleman (if I remember correctly) then I don't expect to find anything like above from my device.

Cheers
Rain

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So the crisis has ended! I found out why the cable was so thin! It was most likely an additional resistor! Yesterday, I plugged my new and improved glue gun in, and in a minute I heard a BUUUM! sound and the lights went out. After I unplugged the bastard, put the 16AMP breaker back on again I took a peek inside. One of the pictures attatched shows the heating element. I pulled the cables out (they werent holding there anyways after the damage) so that part of the thing is not a result of the short circuit. But the black end of the heating element (notice the fine and high quality manufacturing of the heater) IS a result and the cause of the short.

Now. I don't know if this is my fault, but I was pretty careful not to do anything bad while replacing the cable and stuff, so I guess that it's the heaters fault. Or maybe the cables inside were so shitty that they couldn't withstand any aditional movements, however small.

For those of you who wanted extra info on the product take a look at the second picture.
(the small labels say TUV rheinland AND GS and something illegible)

[edit] BTW: I did the pictures just for you, fellow freaks. I had to take a look into my trash bin. Fortunately, I just thrown it out yesterday.

Attachment(s): 

There are pointy haired bald people.
Time flies when you have a bad prescaler selected.

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Hi

Bummer, on blowing it up & the house got blackout.
Were you doing this in the day or at night?
But thanks for the infos.

Ken

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After seeing David's pictures I had to go and check my dirt-cheap glue-gun. It did have a CE mark, still think those pictures will haunt me any time I use it from now on.

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Quote:
Were you doing this in the day or at night?

Night. What's the difference? Did it get possesed by a spirit of the night?

There are pointy haired bald people.
Time flies when you have a bad prescaler selected.

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He probably men, if you could see or not after the big BOOM! ;)
What did you use for light after it? the same heating element?

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Oh. Well, we have candles and other high tech devices, such as a cellphone with a backlight that sheds some light on things. Fortunately, the breaker was in the flat, so nothing much .

So remember kids: check your glue guns and other cheap apliences.

There are pointy haired bald people.
Time flies when you have a bad prescaler selected.

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Poor quality is long remembered after a cheap price is forgotten.

Don

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daqq wrote:
I found out why the cable was so thin! It was most likely an additional resistor!

Yup, most probably it was a resistor.

As a kid i tried to repair a walking lamp with a 10 meter cable(what is the correct name for this in English?), after connecting the shortened cable the lamp was very bright(for a very short time)
It was a special resistor cable, and i've seen them often after that, you can sometimes tell because the cable gets hot.(or use you MultiMeter)

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:lol: By making it better you made it worse :lol:

Or you could say:

By looking at it, it fell apart

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me an my band buddies used such a gun to stick paper boxes (originally used to carry eggs, you know how it looks like) to our practice room walls to eliminate echoes. there was 900 of them, each one needed 4 drips of glue. you could imagine how did it look like after hours of heavy duty work. finally the um.. button to let the glue come out broke into peaces, and the plastic cover melted.
we didn't feel like using it anymore :)

Not entirely familiar with AVR thingies... yet.

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Quote:

By looking at it, it fell apart

Damn you Heisenburg!

- Dean :twisted:

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