Can anyone find this slide switch?

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Hi, I am looking for this slide switch replacement, it seems to be SP3T type, but not sure. I can hookup some other switch by adding some wires but I am particularly interested in getting this exact switch.

 

 

 

From the back the footprint looks like this.

 

 

The one which is actually broken, looks like this from inside.

 

 

While searching I keep finding these ones everywhere, but it has different footprint which doesn't match.

 

 

Anyone know where to get that switch shown in first photo? I looked through mouser but couldn't find it. Why is this so hard?

Thank you for your time.

 

 

“Everyone knows that debugging is twice as hard as writing a program in the first place. So if you're as clever as you can be when you write it, how will you ever debug it?” - Brian W. Kernighan
“Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” - Antoine de Saint-Exupery

Last Edited: Thu. Mar 24, 2022 - 11:04 AM
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Draw a truth table of which position connects which contact---that may help the search.

What is the 2nd switch shown (maybe some scrap you had?)

 

Looks like you may have an spdt combined with an off-on-on switch.

How many positions is the original (looks like 3, maybe 4) ...there are three dB markings

 

Why not clean the contacts and reassemble?

 

Google web search term:  DP3T slide switch

 

maybe here is a starting point for your search

 

When in the dark remember-the future looks brighter than ever.   I look forward to being able to predict the future!

Last Edited: Wed. Mar 23, 2022 - 04:21 PM
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Heisen wrote:
I am particularly interested in getting this exact switch.

I'd think then that when you show e.g. the reverse side view you would give some dimensions.  How many meters between contacts?  Mounting?

You can put lipstick on a pig, but it is still a pig.

I've never met a pig I didn't like, as long as you have some salt and pepper.

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So it's on a loudspeaker crossover? Might be worth doing a quick schematic. I *suspect* that it's a single-pole double-throw center off part.

#1 Hardware Problem? https://www.avrfreaks.net/forum/...

#2 Hardware Problem? Read AVR042.

#3 All grounds are not created equal

#4 Have you proved your chip is running at xxMHz?

#5 "If you think you need floating point to solve the problem then you don't understand the problem. If you really do need floating point then you have a problem you do not understand."

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Brian Fairchild wrote:
I *suspect* that it's a single-pole double-throw center off part.

Close, but it appears the lone center contact connects to the other three (one at a time)...   

So more of a SP 3 pos switch.

 

I'll start looking....

 

Jim

found a mini-rotary switch with the correct pinout....  Note pins 1 + 5 are NC, could be cut off.

https://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/...

https://www.digikey.com/en/produ...

 

 

FF = PI > S.E.T

 

Last Edited: Wed. Mar 23, 2022 - 06:55 PM
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None in Ebay.

 

Checked  1P3T pcb  and then SP3T pcb- none found.

 

Total of 50 'horizontal' types (4 pins in a row)

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Brian Fairchild wrote:
So it's on a loudspeaker crossover?

 

And aren't Focal an expensive brand ?

 

Oh look they even brand all their capacitors.

 

I found one idiot on eBay trying to sell a pair of replacement XO for $155.

 

I'd have thought they would have chosen better switches than that, By definition it's in the signal path.

 

Oh it's car audio stuff. I guess price just doesn't matter as long as it plays loud.

 

3dB adjustments are pretty violent. Just choose your setting and hard link it.

 

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Checked  1P3T pcb  and then SP3T pcb- none found.

It appears to be dual pole (DP), as mentioned in #2

 

you can even get them at Walmart :)

https://www.walmart.com/ip/10pcs...

 

The actual SP3T switching can implement different connection patterns, so need to check the original part.

 

 

When in the dark remember-the future looks brighter than ever.   I look forward to being able to predict the future!

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Thanks for replies guys.

 

avrcandies wrote:
Draw a truth table of which position connects which contact---that may help the search.

avrcandies wrote:
How many positions is the original (looks like 3, maybe 4) ...there are three dB markings

theusch wrote:
the reverse side view you would give some dimensions.  How many meters between contacts?  Mounting?

 

The switch has 3 positions for 3 dB settings. I took some dimensions from the footprint that was drawn on the pcb. The grid size in following image is the typical 2.540mm / 0.1 inch.

 

 

It is ON - ON - ON type switch.

 

The pin 1 is common,

0dB setting connects pin 1 to pin 3 (switch in center position) ,

-3dB setting connects pin 1 to pin 2 (switch in left position),

+3dB setting connects pin 1 to pin 4 (switch in right position)

The pins on the side are NC, used just for mounting.

 

avrcandies wrote:
What is the 2nd switch shown (maybe some scrap you had?)

The one in the last image yes. The closest one found dimensions wise but it won't work.

 

ki0bk wrote:
it appears the lone center contact connects to the other three (one at a time)...

Yes, correct.

 

ki0bk wrote:

found a mini-rotary switch with the correct pinout....  Note pins 1 + 5 are NC, could be cut off.

https://www.nkkswitches.com/pdf/...

https://www.digikey.com/en/produ...

Thanks, I'll take a look.

 

Brian Fairchild wrote:
So it's on a loudspeaker crossover?

Yes. It's from my brother's car used for tweeters I guess. One for left and one for right. Having little knowledge in the audio, all I know is that, these were placed in doors, one in each, and were connected in between the speaker and the amp.

 

 

N.Winterbottom wrote:
3dB adjustments are pretty violent. Just choose your setting and hard link it.

Yeah logically that's what should be done, but the guy came to me said can you replace it (perhaps he wants to sell it in the future), I being a dummy, looked at it and thought it is just a switch I can do it, but little did I know, this is not a generic switch. frown

 

I think they got corroded because they were installed in doors or perhaps a bad install. Should be inside the car. Anyways.

Thanks for the input. I'll look a bit more. 

 

“Everyone knows that debugging is twice as hard as writing a program in the first place. So if you're as clever as you can be when you write it, how will you ever debug it?” - Brian W. Kernighan
“Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” - Antoine de Saint-Exupery

Last Edited: Thu. Mar 24, 2022 - 04:02 AM
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Have you contacted Focal support: https://www.focal.com/en/support  ?

 

 

FF = PI > S.E.T

 

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Since the pins are on a 0.1" (2.54mm) 3x2 pattern, you could (if no replacement switch can be found) pull out the old switch and put in a 3x2 pin header.  Then use a jumper to make the right connection.  Pin 1 would be wired to the two pins on either side of it.