Convert Desoldering Station to Hot Air SMD Rework Station

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I inherited a Hakko 472D Desoldering Station. It's great, but I also want to do a minor SMD rework project. Since it provides power and vacuum like a SMD rework station, I was thinking I might be able to buy the hot air pencil and maybe some adapter rather that a whole hot air station for just one project (comparable model I believe is 850D ~$350 used). I found a list of compatible hot air nozzles down the rabbit hole from the 472D's product page ( 472D Product Page -> FAQ -> ROHS and REACH -> What soldering tip / Desoldering nozzle... -> Hot air nozzles.xls ), but I'm not clear on if this really means I can adapt it. Has anyone done something like this or know where I can find some definitive info?

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iiden_sama wrote:
(comparable model I believe is 850D ~$350 used).
????

You should be able to find one similar on ebay for around $50...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/852D-2i...

 

Jim

 

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The type that  ki0bk  suggested is a good one. The blower should be in the main unit and not in the handle. The cheaper kind has the blower in the handle and that is crap.

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Thanks for the insight. I didn't know about the blower types. I was talking about ~$350 for a Hakko brand unit, because I have the Hakko  472D  and a 937 Soldering Station and I wanted to keep everything the same brand, and wanted to avoid a 3rd device if possible. The one in that link seems to be brand X. I also found this one that is similar, just seems to have seven-segnment displays added. Any notes about brand X units, or should I just go for it?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2in1-Digital-Soldering-Iron-Station-Desoldering-Hot-Air-Gun-SMD-Rework-110V/292938357053

Last Edited: Wed. Jun 19, 2019 - 09:16 PM
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I have had a couple of similar Chinese models, both have worked well for my needs, both hobby and commercial production. 

The one's with the blower in the main box blow air through the tube along with the power connections to the hot air pistol.

The tube can sometimes get pinched when you bend it to aim at the board, when that happens, the air flow slows and the pistol heater can burn out. 

The ones with the fan in the pistol will not do that, but the fans can fail as they are small and cheap. 

In most cases, the unit will last a life time, just treat it well, don't drop it, or pinch the air flow tube! 

After several years of using hot air to melt solder I still get a kick out of watching the parts float into position via the surface tension of the solder. 

Have fun! 

 

You may want to try using water soluble solder / flux, but it requires you wash/dry the board before applying power, the flux is conductive and must be removed.

Just wash it under warm water and blow dry with compressed air.  The boards clean up very nice that way.

 

Most SMD parts can be hand soldered, or at least tacked into place and then reflowed with hot air, with practice you can not tell the diff with one assembled with Pik-n-place machine.  

 

Again have fun!

 

Jim

 

 

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I like the air guns for removing parts

 

I like the  high intensity light "soldering" setups...much better for installing really small parts, as it seems the hot blowers just blow my 0402 parts over to infinity, even if I'm somewhat careful (maybe need to have a feather touch).  Maybe I need to set the speed to just a wisp of air?  The lamp systems don't use air, so no blowing stuff around.  Downside is it heats up a small area, rather than 1 part....but I don't care.

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