Atmel ice programming error

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Finally, I got everything of Atmel Ice. With excitement, I connected the board, ICE and computer. Then, I clicked to program in AS7, and...

I have connected the power to my board. This is the scheme picture.

Is there any error? Or any solution to this?

 

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In atmel ice documentation, it is said:

Windows

When installing the Atmel-ICE on a computer running Microsoft® Windows®, the USB driver is loaded when the Atmel-ICE is first plugged in.

Note

Be sure to install the front-end software packages before plugging the unit in for the first time.

Once successfully installed, the Atmel-ICE will appear in the device manager as a "Human Interface Device".

However, in my device manager:

Is this a problem? If it is, how to solve it? Thanks.

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Or... the chip was damaged by my iron while soldering?

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This is a prime example of why it's good to start with a known-working Dev Board ...

 

The error message is telling you that it can't see any chip connected - so check your connections.

 

Have you tried from the command line?

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The first thing to look at is the target voltage reported by "Device programming".  It shows 2.3 volts.  

 

Is the board powered?  Is the voltage supposed to be 2.3 volts?

 

The ICE doesn't power the board.  It must have it's own power supply.

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The connections you show for the JTAG connector are not correct.  You will need to fix that first.

Letting the smoke out since 1978

 

 

 

 

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As you can see in the scheme, I make that to be precisely 3.3V power. I think that 2.3-2.4V is normal for it will report a "power-off or low voltage" error instead of "no device".
Or.. Do you think that the decoupling capacitor on the Jtag connector is a reason?

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Is it fine to use Sam Jtag for AT32UC3B0512 instead of AVR Jtag?

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I think not.

 

http://www.atmel.com/tools/atmel... - as the name suggests, it is just for SAM

 

http://www.atmel.com/tools/atmelsam-ice.aspx?tab=devices

 

It's a re-badged & restricted Segger J-Link.

 

Segger don't support AVR: https://www.segger.com/downloads/supported-devices.php

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There is no universal standard for JTAG connections.

 

This is what Atmel expect

http://www.atmel.com/webdoc/jtag...

 

 

Attachment(s): 

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This is the Jtag interface in the scheme of EVK1101..

And What is the EVTO meaning?

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MrAn wrote:

This is the Jtag interface in the scheme of EVK1101..

And What is the EVTO meaning?

 

That is NOT the connections you show in the schematic in post #1.

Letting the smoke out since 1978

 

 

 

 

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Another reason I like my Xmega.  PDI has just 4 connections.  laugh

 

I haven't used JTAG in decades, but I'm guessing it should show the exact board voltage ± 0.1 volt, like my PDI connection.  The programmer/debugger must know the board voltage so it knows the correct signal voltage to send to the board.

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Yes, this is in the schematic of EVK1101 not my board. 

https://wenku.baidu.com/view/6fc771757fd5360cba1adb6e.html

It is said EVT, but I cannot find it in the whole document.

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Ignore the EVTO signal (pin 7 on the Atmel 10-pin JTAG).
The UC3xxxx JTAG only uses TCK, TMS, TDO, TDI and RESET. (refer to JTAG Port Connections in the datasheet)
The Atmel JTAG programmer uses VTG. (pin 4)

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Thanks for so many help.

I use a Jtag-Jumper wire to connect the connector as the AVR one. However, the reading is 1.4V. Even if I connect the Vcc and GND of the Jtag connector to the precise 3.3V and GND on the board, the reading is also 1.4V... As the result, the green light of the ICE is not on and an error message 'low voltage' is shown during programming. I even connect a pull-up resistor on TCK according to the EVK1101 schematic but it doesn't work.

According to my scheme, any solutions? Thanks.

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Finally solved, it's seemed that I have to use the official Jtag wire, and the reading voltage is finally 3.3V.

But.. why the official wire will produce the correct reading? Is it because of the resistance? But they are seemed to be the same!

Last Edited: Thu. Aug 31, 2017 - 11:05 AM
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Your other cable must have been faulty and/or mis-wired.

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I have tested the cable wiring. It is not faulty.

I just worry about that the official wire will break after pulling many times, and then... I have to buy a new one with a very high price. 

So.. Can you suggest me the cable (in web link) as the substitution of the official wire? Thanks.

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Well, if the only difference between working & not working is the cable, then the problem has to lie in the cable - doesn't it?

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Yes, I think so.